On a visit to Rarotonga, largest of the Cook Islands, my wife and I found the island so enchanting and the people so pleasant that we stayed for two weeks. Preparations were under way for the South Pacific Arts Festival, which is held every four years and each time in a different Pacific nation. This year the theme was canoes and voyaging, and sailing canoes were converging on Rqrotonga from Hawaii, New Zealand, Tahiti, and the Marshall Islands. The prospect of thousands of visitors flying in for the Festival aroused entrepreneurial instincts, and stands selling local products were blossoming along the coastal road around the island.